St. Mary's Church Welney

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Created Feb 2005 last edited: 05/08/26, 13:08

Introduction

The Parish Church of Welney, officially St. Mary the Virgin but commonly called simply "St. Mary's" is situated on the west side of Main Street, accessed by a bridge over the Old Croft River and surrounded by an extensive churchyard/ graveyard.

Appoaching the church from the road, you will see a group of imposing graves and memorials in front of the Chancel and the taller Nave with bellcote/bell turrett, beyond. The main entrance is the south door at the far (west) end (left on photo).
in sun photo from website's archives, source not recorded
The church is locked when not in use. If you wish to see inside, come during a service (link below) or on a Thursday morning community drop-in social, 10.00-11.45, and ask the Churchwarden for a tour - and enjoy refreshment afterwards.
Please note
For details of services, weddings and funerals
see the Church's official site: St Mary's Welney at 6FC's
Otherwise, take a tour here, scroll on down, or choose an item from the menu. (the menu button is always on view)
late victorian OS map Church and Churchyard site
late victorian OS map 1849 development and Church Terrace, Ordnance Survey 6" map
1950c aerial view c1950. Church Terrace at left, later demolished to build Taymor Place; also trees behind and to the right of the church, later removed.
photo: Welney archives, source n/k

Brief history

Built in 1847/48 by Jeremiah Andrews to a design by JC Buckler in typically Victorian Gothic, Early-Englsh, steep-roofed style.
It was part of a large development comprising church, school and shoolmaster's house and almshouses for six poor widows, all largely funded by the charity of William Marshall, Welney's generous benefactor.
Two pieces of land for the new Church and almshouses were donated, one by Peter Huddleston and his wife Elizabeth, the other by William Lee.

St.Mary's is the 3rd Church on this site. The Church guidebook says it replaced a small brick mid-16th century Chapel to the south-east, the position confirmed on the Upwell cum Welney Tithe map of 1840 held at Norfolk County Hall nd that was preceded by a 12th century Norman church.
There is more history and a Timeline further down.

In 1907 more land to the west was aquired (paid for by Marshall's Charity) to extend the Churchyard (consecrated June 1908)

In 1986 the Church was given listed grade II* status.
late victorian OS map The site today with graveyard extended to the west

Exterior

The elevations

Facing you on arrival is the front of church which faces just a little north of due east, with bellcote which is actually not atop the front wall, its over the end of the nave.
rear east elevation
To the left is the south side and current main entrance.
rear east elevation
At the rear, the west door, heating boiler, fuel tank, and shed.
rear east elevation Then round to the north side, with the small door to the original vestry
rear east elevation 4 photos above: Peter Cox, Feb 2013, Olympus E-620
church in snow 2 December 2009. Whatever the season or weather, the church is a glorious site.
church in snow
snow photos: Peter Cox, Dec 2009, Olympus E410

Walls and Brickwork

coursed brickwork
The walls are 'carstone' (red sandstone) blocks, laid in a 'coursed' pattern, where each layer (course) has blocks same height but different lengths, and layers above/below have blocks of a different height.

photo: Peter Cox, Feb 2013, Olympus E-620

A vein of carstone runs through west Nofolk and several quarries mined the material and cut into blocks. Those at St. Mary's may have been supplied from a quarry to the north of Snettisham, carted to the coast, then taken by boat/barge to Kings Lynn thence via the Old Bedford River to Welney.
hunstanton cliffs
The end of a long vein of this rock can be seen at the base of the cliff face at the beach at Hunstanton.

photo: Peter Cox, June 2007, Olympus SP55OZ



buttress The walls are supported by butresses every 12ft or so with "ashlar masonary" (smooth fine white stone around carstone) .

buttress
"quoins" and "ashlar"
image: source unknown

The windows are also framed with white stone

Altogether a very attractve style.

Doors

There are three doors, different in size and style. I can see no obvious signs of alterations or retro fitting, so assume all original.
Photos below not to scale.
North door, trefoiled buttress South door, trefoiled buttress West door, arched buttress
Many people wonder why the North door (left) at the east end of the Church is so narrow. The reason is that it was a private door just for the priest, not the congregation. It led into a small room, a vestry, where he (yes he, no female priests then) could dress and prepare for the service. (more of this matter in the interior section further down)
photos: Peter Cox,

Roof

The roof rafters are fixed to the tops of the walls in tradtional fashion and supported by curved trusses supported on wall posts and
Above the rafters are timber planks laid diagonally, and slate tiles.
roof beams, east
photo: Peter Cox, May 2010, Olympus E-410
Within the roof area are a number of metal rods, probably of cast iron. Runing across the width are and lengthwise are the latter bolted to anchor plates on the outer gable walls.

During 2004-2005, the roof was exensively repaired and insulated. Old slates re-used on south roof; new slates fitted on north side, and both sides of chancel roof and new guttering and downpipes fitted.
2005 aerial view
2005, re-slating roof; photo: courtesy Dick Fiske, Upwell
arched brace roof diagram
diagram of arch-braced roof, image: © Trevor Yorke
"English Churches Explained"

wall anchor plate

Right, anchor plate, west wall
photo: Peter Cox, Feb 2013, Olympus E-620


Bellcote (Bell turret) and Bell(s)

The Church guidebook says that when built
"there were two bells in the bellturret over the chancel arch, one being blank and the other bearing the inscription "John Clarke made by me 1613" There is now only one bell ...... it is not known if it is the one bearing the inscription. ... we have not been able to find out what happened to the other bell, but what is known is that there was only one bell in 1892."
The change in the bellcote c1892 after one bell removed:

Left, bellote with two bells c1890; right, rebuilt with one bell since 1892
2-bell photo courtesy: Bill Smith, Upwell; One bell photo: Peter Cox, 2013
The guidebook also says that "during 2004-2005 roof renovations, the bell was removed and sent to Derby for repair". I wonder why the inscription wasn't noted then?

I haven't been able to trace any bell foundries in Derby. The only remaining bell foundry in the UK is John Taylor & Co, Loughborough. Maybe the repairs didn't need a specialist, just an ordinary iron foundry?
With the benefit of a camera with long zoom lens, the inscription mystery has been solved.


The bell in place is inscribed, at top of bell can just be seen "made-me"
photo: Peter Cox, 2013, Olympus

Bridge over Old Croft River to Church gates

In November 2015 the parapets of the access bridge were demolished prior to rebuilding, giving a very temporary glimpse of the original arch (the river now runs through a concrete pipe).

I don't know whether the bridge is contemporary with the Church or existed previously for access to the earlier buildings. The charity of William Marshall, otherwise known simply as Marshall's Charity, had provision in the original indenture of 1661, to repair the Chapel and bridge leading to it:
"one third part of the rents issues and profits of the said premises should be employed and disposed of for repairing the Chapel of Welney aforesaid also the bridge upon the river or stream thereof for the inhabitants of the said Hamlet to pass over the said bridge to hear divine service and prayers in the Chapel aforesaid"

Church Interior

A conventional layout; nave (main body of the church where the the congregation are seated) with timber gallery above at the west end, a Caen stone font near the main access, the south door, also at the west end. At the east end, a pulpit of Caen stone and vestry accessed from the North door. Beyond the nave is an arch leading into the Chancel with organ and choir stalls. At the far east end is the altar.

According to a report in the Wisbech Advertiser in September 1848, the church was
"fitted with open seats capable of holding 400 persons, with a gallery at the west end for 120 children."
People, particularly children, were much smaller in those days!
I believe 120 was also the number of pupils the school was designed for.

A pipe organ by the London firm of G.M. Holdich was installed in 1874 with money donated by parishioners, and the tiled reredos below the east window was added in 1887 funded by friends of the Rector, to mark Queen Victoria's 50th anniversary of her reign.

Electricity was installed in 1950 (and a year later an electric organ blower) and (oil-fired) radiator central heating in 1963.
In 1990 a kitchen was built into what had been the south west vestry, and a toilet installed under the stairs in the north west corner. The rearmost nine pews were removed to make room for a meeting area with tables (mostly folding) and stackable chairs.
I believe the font was also moved then, from the aisle to nearer the South door.

south east window
east window and reredos
photo: Peter Cox, Sept 2008

choir pews
choir pews each side of chancel - removed in 1990.
photo from Welney Archives, source n/k

painting of nave
photo of glazed painting showing view from west end of nave towards the Chancel, and old location of font.
photo: Peter Cox, Feb 2013, Olympus E-620

font, decoratedl
font in current position, just inside south door, a traditional location.
photo: Peter Cox, Oct 2010, Olympus E-410

organ
the Holditch organ
photo: Peter Cox, Sept 2008

Floor plans

original floor plan, 1848 Above: An earlier interior layout, possibly the original 1849. Note: reduced-width seating (pews) on north west and south west, position of font, and no organ

Below: the layout today following 1991 changes: reduced-width seating mostly gone, font repositioned, organ, WC and kitchen installed, and floor carpeted.
Outside, boiler house, oil tank and shed added
floor plan, 1991
diagrams by Peter Cox, March 2025, amended 2026, using Excel spreadsheet

Charity, by Wilmhurst
'Charity' by Thomas Wilmhurst
St Mary's Welney chancel arch
Chancel arch and east window.
Note 'blind' window above arch, the boards each side & the door.
.
Simon Knott came here in August 2005 as part of his endevour to record all of Norfolk's churches. An extract from his description of St. Mary's :
" The inside is curious, because the church is sinking into the soft Fen soil, more on the south side than the north. As a consequence, the middle of the nave is a good 12 inches higher than the outer walls.

The view east is of a delicious Victorian gothic extravaganza, Thomas Wilmhurst's enamel painting of Joshua Reynold's Charity in the east window, a rich, tiled 1880s sanctuary below. "

(all colour photos Peter Cox, Feb 2013)


On the left, the small door beside the pulpit and boards around arch are explaned below.


east window with painting

looking west to gallery
looking west from Chancel Arch to gallery. Originally, pews for 400 people plus 120 children in Gallery.

North door

north door, outer
photo: Peter Cox, Feb 2013 Many people wonder why the outer North door at the east end of the Church is so narrow. The reason is that it was a private door just for the priest, not the congregation. It led into a small room, a vestry, where he (yes he, no female priests then) could dress and prepare for the service.

He would then enter the Nave facing the congregation by an even narrower but very tall inner door (see right) to the side of the pulpit. (also see in photo of Chancel Arch above left)

North door, inner
photo: Peter Cox, Aug 2010
Commandments I-IV (1-4)

Decalogue Boards

Each side of the top of the Chancel Arch are what are known as boards showing the Ten Commandment as decreed for all [Anglican] Churches by Queen Ellizabeth 1st in 1560.

Below them are two more boards with the words of the Lord's Prayer and the Apostles Creed, which were often felt to be ‘very fit companions’ for the Commandments.

No doubt very useful too for those who couldn't remember the words - provided they could read!

Commandments V-X (5-10)

the Lord's Prayer


east window with painting